Southern Tier 2021

 Yes, that same Van Horn from where William Shattner got launched on New Shepherd this morning. We were 70 miles away with a mountain in between so just saw the contrail. Today was 75 comfortable miles, at least compared to yesterday. Gentle south wind, some bumpy roads, then Interstate and frontage road, climbing 2000 ft midday and then descending 500 ft end of day rolling into Van Horn. Dry, dusty west Texas. RV park is wide open, no shade, breeze picking up and a few goathead thorns and annoying prickly burrs. Having a beer after shower, waiting on group laundry, a few minutes until  appetizers. Then I'll set up tent on best remaining spot. Central time this far west means sun is still way up. Had an interesting encounter at lunch stop at convenience store in Sierra Blanca. Guy asks if we're biking to Florida, start talking and next thing I know we're talking civil war history for half an hour. Melvin originally from Florida, drove trucks, retired here and loves it. Live...

 New time zone, now on Central. Today featured a 30mph side wind from the south, blowing dirt from Mexico since we are close to the border, between I10 and the Rio Grande. Which is actually called the Bravo in Mexico. Loved the few wind break pecan groves, but mostly it was cleared land (for future development) or cotton fields, or just desert. Power lines were singing to us in the gusts. Only took about 10 miles of busy highway and suburbs to get out of El Paso, and even then mostly good pavement the rest of the way. But wind and dust was the the theme of the day, tasting grit and getting coated with a fine layer sticking to the sunscreen lotion. Even feel grit between my toes. Fortunately it was a short day (48 miles), done by lunch, and thankfully not a headwind. Tomorrow's forecast says wind will be no problem, 4-7 mph at best. Tonight staying inside out of wind at the Fort Hancock Community Church, with cotton fields on 2 sides of us being harvested, and showers across the str...

Thankfully finished up my cook responsibilities this round with breakfast cleanup, then rushed to pack and get on road at 8:30, a busy 2 plus hours. Flat to start, headwind expected mid day, so rolling fast. Did stop in old town center of Mesilla to see the plaza, including old courthouse where Billy the Kid was sentenced to hang. Then through the pecan groves, cool shaded canopy over the road. We next got on an 8 mile bike path in the sun along the bone dry Rio Grande, worrying about goathead thorns the whole way.  And then into the suburbs of El Paso,  followed by 8 lane highway of shopping malls, increasing urban traffic, through downtown El Paso, along the wall and a  border crossing, truck staging areas, a petrochemical plant, seedy residential area, and finally along side Interstate 10 and our La Quinta motel on the east side of town. 20 miles of no fun. 63 mile day, very stressful, so now celebrating our Texas arrival with beer in the parking lot in time for 3pm ch...

 After slight climb out of funky Hillsboro,  it was fast downhill plus a lovely tailwind, class A day all the way.  Note the sequential uses of this Hillsboro building: bank, hotel, house of ill repute, bar, winery, now house. Just rolling along, following the Rio Grande, little if any flowing water, mostly dry, but green irrigated fields and arid hills. Cotton, chiles, and eventually pecan trees! 20% of US pecan production is right here around Las Cruces. 81 easy miles. Crossed the Rio Grande several times, ended up avoiding Las Cruces proper by taking back road to KOA on hill with terrific views (and very nice showers, toilets, laundry). Had to rush since I was cooking with leader Beth Anne (like my previous co-cook a woman who doesn't like to cook), so repeat scrambled eggs and taters, this time sauteing spinach as well. Big salad and good Rustic bread, and triple chocolate cake for dessert. Exhausting, too many dirty pans, too much rushed cleanup. Just have to get up ...

 The ride up to Emory Pass (8,228 ft) was actually fun, 16 miles up from Mimbres, strong tailwind and shade. Amazing view from the top east over the beginning of the Rio Grande watershed.  Riding down was a bit too exciting, too fast and too long, but rolled right into tiny Hillsboro, in time for beer at the Black Range winery and the rest of my lunch at 1pm. Rode my brakes most of the way down, front ones started squealing, so need to adjust. Day drinking not conducive to fine motor skills. Then to another weird RV park, full of antique trailers, collected by the owner as a hobby initially and now an encampment. She rents them out and all are taken, but few people here tonight, so we have scattered our tentsites in between them. Bathroom is beyond funky: single shack combining toilet, shower, sink.

 Just 26 miles today, short climbing day up to the Santa Rita open pit copper mine. Ore dug here is only 0.6% copper, so a lot of ore needed to extract metal. This mine became infamous due to a 1951-1952 strike by the primarily Mexican American miners. After a court injunction prevented the union members from striking, the women's auxilary took over the strike functions. The famous documentary Salt of the Earth was about this strike. Then fast downhill to another RV park, next to road likely to be noisy on a Friday night, scarce shade but at least it isn't too hot. Meanwhile Matt had a flat in his "tubeless" tire, and the fix didn't hold so needed a lift to camp for yet another session on the bike stand.   Tomorrow we climb up Emery Pass, 8,228 ft. and another short day, just 38 miles. Gaining weight on this trip: cookies, candy, beer. Our camp tonight (elevation about 5,300 ft), featuring my new green tent next to my bike.

Silver City is a hip update to a western mining town, founded 1870. Curious claims to fame: Billy the Kid lived here, his family's cabin burned down but there is a replica, courtesy of Hollywood -- Ron Howard filmed a movie here. Second claim is that devasting floods washed away the original Main St, leaving the "big ditch", named after the Panama Canal, now a creek 55 feet below grade, nice little river way park. Third claim to fame: Gila Bike & Hike shop, where everyone on our tour had some service done or bought gear. I got my front tire trued (dang CA and AZ crap roads) and bought 2 more spare tubes, supposedly "self sealing". Plus a real tent, 2 person, free standing, separate rainfly, Big Agnes "seed house". Will ship my super lightweight AT tent home, just not up for the weather around here.  And a final claim to fame, what else but a brew pub to visit this evening. Excellent beer, "happy hippy" dinner (portobello mushroom, cheese,...