Southern Tier 2021

Last night was yet another crappy RV "park" -- it really means parking lot, with us tenting on the central patch of grass amidst the fire ant mounds, surrounded by the behemoths. RV parks are crowded vehicle ghettos, no true amenities (though this one had a distant and small clubhouse and tiny pool, which no one used. All of this squeezed in between busy highway and train tracks, and the added attraction of the quite popular Honky Tonk bar and dance hall with live band blasting away next door. What better way to spend an exhausted Saturday night. Needless to say didn't sleep well.  Very heavy dew in the cold morning, but nice day to ride: sunny, warming, no wind and flat. Church traffic but no logging trucks.  Crossed the Sabine River into Louisiana, done with the 1000 miles of Texas. Today only 54 miles. Staying in Merryville on the history museum grounds with old cabins with porches and a pavilion, so after drying tents on the lawn most are setting up under cover to avo...

 61 miles, easy, little wind, good riding until a tragedy happened behind us. Beth Ann was riding sweep, riding last and back aways from our group. She unexpectedly encountered five cyclists, a younger couple from Boston and a trio of older cyclists from California, two groups riding the southern tier separately and selfsupported. Just happenstance that the six of them clumped up right there and then, on a section of road where the only shoulder was the rumble strip, forcing them to ride the white line. Beth Ann rode with them only a few minutes and was trying to let them get ahead of her when an apparently impaired driver tried to pass them, saw a truck approaching and swerved into the group, missing Beth Ann but striking the next three at high speed. Beth Ann saw it all happen mere feet in front of her and then she hit a bike pannier knocked lose on the road and fell. She was unhurt, immediately called 911, made sure the injuried stayed down (risk of neck and back injuries), help...

 Easy day today, just 45 miles to this very strange, funky, and entertaining refuge. Cabins to stay in, outdoor toilet and shower (though there is an indoor one), and a bizarre collection of oddities decorating the expanse. Peach Williamson is the proprietor, bought the land 27 years ago and just started building on it, at first a few cabins and oddities to entertain nieces and nephews. A few years ago she got on the Adventure Cycling bandwagon -- Beth Ann staying here for her third time.  Also hosts weddings and other events. Early Halloween themed dinner. Last night the wind died at the campsite at dark, allowing the mosquitoes to come out and play, but then picked up again later. We were heading northeast or due east, so had a nice tailwind at times. Knee bothered me a bit toward end today, so did the rough graveled shoulder and rumble strips. To Shepherd Sanctuary for quick shower so I could send my laundry with the gang going into town, leisurely lunch, and then sorting t...

 Apparently we're north of Houston, about an hour away, other than that no real sense of where we are. Heading north and east through south Central Texas, and that fierce west north west wind was mostly from the side, but occasionally enough of a tail wind to make today's 69 miles fun. Last of the rolling hills as we approach the "pine tree curtain" which separates central from eastern TX according to Mike, owner of the Independence General Story. And these old pumps still work. No wifi of course, barely a bar of reception here in this fishing area in the middle of Sam Houston national forest. And the winds had knocked out power so no shower before had to go shopping in New Waverly. Not much selection at Sam Slotts's grocery, feed, fertilizer. Went for pasta and a few veggies, lots of leftovers and parmesan went into it a desperation meal. Donna had two friends stopping by, fortunately bringing appetizers and dessert. Sadly my cooking partner tonight announced he ...

 Rain and thunderstorm this morning, from about 3am to 9am, but we were comfortably inside our cabins, luckily. Breakfast was delayed then delayed again, so nice morning to sleep in. Out on park roads about 10, Chuck and I taking slightly shorter direct route on busy highway (with big shoulders) to La Grange, then back on official route. Flattening out but lots of traffic on small road, as we wonder about the electronic sign warning us of "event congestion." Turns out to be last week of big fall antique festival in Oldenburg and Round Top, with crazy activity on both sides of road. So big trucks plus day trippers from Houston and Austin combine for a miserable hour or two, with crosswind starting up and no real shoulder. Then nicer terrain on quieter road through Longpoint and Gay Head, slightly higher with views, but crosswind really blowing and gusting from the northwest as air clears out from the mugginess of last few days. North toward lake and to our campsite right at la...

 Only 47 miles today, humid and cloudy again most of the day. Busy Burleson Rd east away from airport and congestion. Slightly hilly terrain, but flattening out into long rolling hills toward old town of Bastrop. Lots of history, preserved storefronts and distinguished homes, and a brewery of course.  Note the county Democratic Party sharing space with the Magic card store. Day drinking at noon, but no hurry since only 15 miles to state park and our cabins won't be ready before 3. Leisurely lunch, and then we hear that back route to park is closed and we should take the main highway. Roll through town, onto highway but then Donna and the van appears, saying the back route is actually open, it was just closed for construction at the park entrance. Chuck has slow leak in rear tire, pumps it up, and we decide to take the scenic route, which is a roller coaster ride up, down, and turn around, as if designed by M.C. Escher, through a former burn area now revegetating, low green shr...

 Van took us in to downtown and Mellow Johnny's bike shop, convenient to the Whole Foods flagship store and REI. Since no laundry facilities at state park (and not for next few days) and given how humid it is I bought a new jersey and riding shorts, plus a new thermarest pad to replace my slow leaking one. Walked about abit but no ambition in midday warmth. Photo doesn't do justice to this "most perfect specimen of a tree in North America," a live oak estimated to be over 700 years old. Later the van will pick us up at the bike shop and drop us off at well regarded Meanwhile brewing for a couple of hours, with food trucks for our dining pleasure. Daughter Clare went to college with the owner's wife, so we have an in! And a wonderful time was had by all. Owner)/brewer Will (who literally was mopping up an outside spill when we arrived -- gotta love hands on management) graciously bought us a round, gave us the "family and friends discount" and also gave u...

 Technically we're outside Montopolis, at least 10 miles from Austin, south and east at McKinney Falls St Park. Nice enough park, not crowded, no bright lights, just distant highway noise. And wifi only at the ranger station, half mile away? Didn't sleep that well last night, too much noise and light. Second day of early morning mist, muggy and cloudy. Another adjustment, far from the dry desert now. Mosquitoes of course. Out of camp by 8:30, another slow start, with quite a bit of Sunday morning traffic on the ranch route we're taking east toward Austin. A few not so prosperous or failed farms, but then start seeing what must be country homes for city folk. One was constructed entirely of shipping containers, maybe 20 total? One stream crossing, where there was actually flowing water to ride through. Some said it was slippery but I had no problem, just the very steep climb up on the other side. Rolling and at times rocky hills, hardscrabble yielding to massive custom homes...

 By the time I finished breakfast cleanup most folks had left, but I was in no hurry given only going 41 miles. Knee felt fine, just the usual stiffness. Cloudy, almost muggy, mist in early morning and low clouds giving way to sun, 80s by afternoon. Into Fredericksburg, nice limestone buildings but pretty much a tourist town. Out onto the rolling ranch roads, not quite as scenic as yesterday's drive in the van. Nice morning ride, distant ridges, green grazing fields. Saw my first longhorns, impressive wing span. Last 3 miles dumped onto busy truck route with narrow if any shoulders, high speed transition from the pastoral. Tonight's RV park just off that noisy road and we're cramed into a small area surrounded by behemoths. And this marks the half way point, with four weeks done and four weeks until St. Augustine.

 Here is the bucolic view of the Guadalupe River from the campsite this morning, as we dawdled packing up.  Dawdled in my case because I was taking this very easy day (only 35 miles to Fredericksburg) off, to ride in the van with Beth Ann. Dave also took the van, as he has for the past few days, diagnosed with walking pneumonia. He was finally able to get medicine yesterday. We first stopped at Starbucks then a bike shop at long last, where Matt was once again having work done on his temperamental machine. I bought new bike shorts, since my ancient ones are pretty well worn out. They only had a size medium, which proved to be very tight when I tried them on in camp. May just keep them in reserve until necessary. Then onto today's route, small narrow ranch roads that looked more like driveways. Nice rolling terrain, which everyone else had fun riding. To Fredericksburg and a very nice RV park, real grass, nice facilities (pool and hot tub), just tenting too close to busy road. ...

 Today was an 86 mile ride featuring 4 big climbs. My knee did fine the first one, stopping for ice tea after fast downhill into Leakey at mile 26. No cell reception, even in a real town, seemed strange. Then up and down the next two, stopping for lunch at campground convenience store about mile 42 or so. Still no reception. Then up the final climb (about 5000 ft overall elevation gain today) and up on to plateau, still no reception. By then my sore knee was saying no mas, with my hamstrings beginning to hurt. So much for calling for a pickup by leader Donna in the van if my knee faded. So onward, slowly, changing the mechanics of my pedalling to accommodate one knee, making everything else start to hurt. Down to intersection at mile 55, and see a guy checking the load in his pickup. Mark is friendly and agrees to give me a ride 14 miles up the road to his house. He moved here from Colorado about 10 years ago, doing construction, then working on some of the ritzy exotic game ranche...

 Our motel featured sunset and then sunrise symphonies of grackles, very loud cacaphony. Breakfast in the parking lot, with only leader Donna getting a dropping splat on her shoulder. It had rained during the night, humid and cloudy morning. Delightful evolving transition, once we escaped Del Rio environs, from the dry shrub desert we've been in for a couple of weeks, to a world of green, even with substantial trees. Traded shades of gray dust for shades of green. Did see another bobcat, dashing across road. At 30 miles stopped in Bracketville at convenience store for ice tea and a too early lunch, since nothing for next 50 miles. Chatted with world traveler Tom from New Zealand, age 57, sold his travel business in 2919 to bike around the world, starting in Argentina. Got to Bolivia when Covid hit, went back to NZ. Since then he's done Europe and now east to west on the southern tier. He also did the Transamerica route in 2016. He apparently was an early adopter of Bitcoin so h...

 Not as cold, but wind rattled the tents all night. Tired and very stiff this morning, even my leg muscles complaining. Much like running a marathon, you can't imagine how much it can hurt. Up and out early, drafting as a group of four with Monte, Mark and Chuck (even though drafting-- following close in line to minimize wind resistance -- is against Adventure Cycling policy). To Amistad reservoir and long bridge crossing, traffic building approaching this recreation area. Saw first armadillo, roadkill of course -- to go with the deer, ring-tailed cats, skunk and even vulture carcasses. Then 5 miles of strip mall development into Del Rio and our Motel 6 close to Walmart. Only 41 miles today, so much better than yesterday; we arrive early and have to wait a couple hours to get into rooms. Wind dying down, should be overall an easier 75 mile day tomorrow. We're finally out of the high desert, heading into Texas hill country heading toward Austin, our next rest day in 5 days. Will...

 Worst day yet. 80 miles. Strong headwind from midmorning on, 20mph with gusts up to 35. No fun. But day started great, biking back into town at 7am for breakfast at Baptist Church put on by Beth Ann's friends, who had brought spaghetti supper to us last night. Out into early morning just after dawn, no headwind at first, until suddenly clicked on around mile 15. At 30 miles out Beth Ann provided a water stop, snacked up, back at it. Rolling terrain, blooming sage brush, would be lovely without the wind. The road cuts into hills seemed to magnify the wind, funneling it at us. No momentum, had to pedal constantly, no coasting. Everything started hurting, even feeling strain in knees. Shoulders cramping from having to steer into gusts, neck tightening up from stress of the ride, rough graveled shoulders meaning trying to ride on the smoother surface of the road but keeping eye out for passing trucks blasting by. Break for lunch out of wind at 2:30, still another 20 to go, difficult t...

 Cold morning, late start since I was on breakfast duty. And the headwind kicked in earlier than yesterday, but otherwise a repeat: uphill into wind, then wind easing late when finally downhilling into town. Again 55 miles, 10mph a hard pull, fatigue in arms, sore neck, numbness in hands, the usual drill. Into RV park featuring astroturf tent area, with train tracks behind, busy road in front. One small washhouse with one women's, one men's toilet/shower combos.  And another bike tour group pulls in, 24 riders going Santa Monica to Savannah. Ontario based company, TDA global cycling, does world wide epic rides like Cairo to Capetown, so this is one of their shorter rides. And we're all sharing two toilets.  Their leaders do all the cooking, so a step up from us. But special news is that some friends of leader Beth Ann are bringing spaghetti dinner for us, and will feed us breakfast tomorrow. Extravagant and appreciated.

 Only 57 miles today but the middle of it was a dispiriting grind uphill into a strengthening headwind. The strong east wind we had all day in Marfa yesterday diminished overnight, and the morning was very cold and calm.  Here's the Marfa lights viewing area 9 miles out of town.  They obviously take this mysterious and intermittent phenomena seriously.  Late start with the chill, and them a stop in Alpine after 25 miles for hot cocoa and early bite of lunch. But the next 20 miles was a long gradual uphill, the headwind making 9mph hard earned. Had to stop in the middle to eat and drink, the wind dessicating my skin.  But then it was a slight downhill the next ten miles into Marathon, still against the wind. Not too bad an RV park, tenting on grass. And they have telescopes, taking advantage of dark skies out here in the Chihuahuan desert. Low mileage but long tiring day. And we get to do a similar ride tomorrow apparently. Quick shower, lathered my lizard skin w...

No luck seeing the Marfa lights last night, but may try again tonight. Cold early this am, but then this is high desert, elevation 4,685 ft. No group breakfast, since promise of free coffee at 7:30 in the deluxe office, lounge and western wear shop. Sadly, no hot water for tea, so had to head into town for a fine cafe experience, eggs and fresh baked bagel. Shady, out of wind (yes, it's blowing hard again), but they are repaving the street out front. Then to public library, bought a book from their book barn, and admired the donated pumpkins for the patch the librarians are planning. And then to see Andy Warhol's take on the Last Supper, his final commission: https://www.aynfoundation.com/projects.php And back to the campsite, past the now on duty beer burros. No trip to the (non) lights tonight, lack of interest from group. Oh well. Had fun at Planet Marfa bar.  

 The long anticipated artsy town of Marfa at last. Leader Beth Ann has been talking this place up, raising expectations. It also features mysterious unexplained light phenomena in the night sky,  and she promises us a trip 9 miles away tonight to check out. See: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marfa_lights Noisy night in Van Horn, barking dogs and answering coyotes. Plus large RVs pulling in late, and the bright parking lot lights. Happy to leave, as we head south to the promised town of Marfa. South then southeast, with slight elevation gain all day and wind from side increasing. Bumpy pavement, but high only in the 80s so not a  bad day at all, since the goal was Marfa, and a rest day! We are staying at a high end hip campground called El Cosmico. Features teepees, cabin tents, old trailers, hot tubs, open to the sky showers, and a very nice lawn for tenting. Venue for music, art and weddings -- there is one tomorrow and we saw the "beer burros" arrive, two mini bu...