Southern Tier 2021

  Surreal in St Joe, our Airbnb for tonight, luckily for us after our 83 miler. Which was actually easy since we had a tailwind much of the day, cruising along the beaches. And also past strip malls and high bridges for the river/bay crossings.  We went through Seaside, setting for the movie The Truman Show, and later this Ripley's Believe It or Not attraction. And then Tyndall Air Force Base, still showing evidence of the 2018 category 5 hurricane Michael which destroyed every building on the base ($5 billion to the base, $25 billion to the surrounding area). Trees were leveled, then burned in a later fire. At our Airbnb, we did a lottery for the guys' rooms, and I lucked out again getting the single room and not one of the two cramped bunk bed rooms. Being in an actual house with big tv (nonstop college football games so far), full kitchen (Donna didn't ride so she seemed to spend the afternoon cooking -- chicken for the masses and a veggie quiche for me plus cornbread an...

 Nice stay in Pensacola, brew pub then the Methodist Church were lots of fun. Leisurely departure after breakfast since we were crossing a long busy bridge. The bike/pedestrian separate lane was closed off fur to construction, so Beth Ann escorted us, following  behind  with flashers on. Of course there was one jerk who blew his horn blasting past her and trying to pull into our lane. We make it over to Gulf Breeze and then the Gulf Islands National Seashore, a long stretch of barrier beach and lovely white sand dunes. Which don't seem to offer much protection since the water seems high -- may just be high tide but still. Lots of pricey shore front houses on stilts or fancy condos and tall complexes and  hotels on this redneck Riviera. Warms up to mid 70s but a cool feel to the day. Push against slight headwind, eventually cross back to mainland over a scary narrow bridge sidewalk. Then lots and lots of traffic, sometimes a bike lane, sometimes a shoulder, sometimes ...

 No rain, nice night, no critter reports. Leisurely breakfast as Chuck and Matt made scrambled eggs, pancakes, and sausage. No hurry to do 16 miles. Another lovely morning, not hot, flat, mostly shouldered roads, not even that much traffic considering we're riding into a city. To the First United Methodist Church, which lets cycling groups stay inside, right downtown, with multiple bike shops and brew pubs nearby. I take bike around corner to check for chain stretch (still ok) and to buy a replacement shifter cable to replenish Chuck's stock. The church is also the town hub for homeless services, offering meals, etc. Right at home. They even let us use their laundry, for small donation. "Champing" (church camping) once again. Might have showers this afternoon and overnight, so nice to be inside. Then clear weather for a week. All is good. Walked around town seeking beer and food. Found beer at least. Midnight (ok, 8:30, but midnight for us) raid with Matt and Monte of...

 Best campsite by far: clean and big bathrooms, bugs went away at dusk, beach so close, nice trees to camp under and no dew. Then a ferry ride, 5 miles from Dauphin over to Fort Morgan, then 42 miles, flat and perfect, bike path through the more developed area in Gulf Shores, then along Perdido beach and across steep bridge over bay to Gulf Beach, Florida. And my front derailleur cable snapped, so the remaining 10 miles I was limited to lower gears but could still roll along at 13mph to state park. Fortunately Chuck had spare cables and tools so I was able to put a new one in without too much grief. Nice sunny day, low 70s, but turning cloudy, chance of rain tonight. This state park not quite as nice, with plenty of no-seeums and mosquitoes, even an armadillo sighted around the tents. First campfire of the trip, s'mores for dessert, helps keep bugs and critters away. Very easy day tomorrow, practically a zero as we ride 16 miles into Pensacola to stay at a Methodist church communit...

  Not as cold or dewy, but swamp damp this morning. A more leisurely start since only doing 50 miles. Over the bridge to Pascagoula, birthplace of Jimmy Buffet, nice wide shoulder on US 90 east, crossing into Alabama. Then south to the Gulf, over the Gordon Persons bridge to Dauphin Island, at the bottom of Mobile Bay. Shipbuilding facilities, oil rigs, lots of boats fishing or bringing in oysters. And this first gator sighting, of sorts. Tomorrow we'll have another easier day to Pensacola, taking the ferry first thing from this island to Fort Morgan, the Bon Secour wildlife refuge, and then crossing into Florida at Perdido Bay. Beach 5 minute walk from campsite.

  Another cold, damp, dewy night: packing up a soaking wet rain fly again. Sunny, not really warm, but fun riding weather. Today we rode 84 miles south and east to the Gulf Coast, eventually leaving the hills and ranches behind as we return to bayou country. And friendly people talking with us during our few breaks at convenience stores or at a Dollar General, telling us to be careful and ride safe. A few dogs did their thing, but so far no one has had an actual nip or bite, just noisy chases.  Camping at the edge of a swamp in a crowded campground -- crowded with the TDA tour group we last camped with three weeks ago. No time to wait for a shower (or warm water) since I was cooking. Fortunately Donna and I had shopped yesterday after returning from NO. Menu was once again pasta and veggie heavy tomato sauce by me, and some sort of sausage by Donna plus her fabulous kale salad. And chocolate cake dessert of course.  No wifi again, but I didn't take a single photo today an...

Preservation Hall. After a very cold and dewy night and the time change falling back adding an extra hour to huddle in sleeping bags, we rode the van into New Orleans to spend four hours having fun.  After walking around in the sun for an hour or so I met up with my ex-inlaws Suzanne and Mark for delicious pizza and then ice cream. Very nice to catch up with them and family news.